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The Butterfly & The Grasshopper

Restaurant - Global

This tarted-up boozer, with its dark hues and nods to Art Deco styling, sits at the junction of Oldham Street and Renshaw (opposite where Rapid Hardware used to be), combining bar areas (Grasshopper) downstairs and restaurant (Butterfly) up, with a roof terrace right at the top.

Small plates take a round-the-world trip, with the likes of buttermilk buffalo fried chicken (of course), harissa-spiced lamb shawarma flatbread and zingy fish tacos on those slightly offputting blue corn tortillas. Vegetarian diets are well catered for, from basic cheese on toast to the more fancy whipped honey goats cheese with walnuts and beetroot on a sourdough crouton, and vegans too, if you don’t mind a bit of soup or salad. Moules marinière find themselves listed under both small plates and big plates (here, they come with skinny fries), and mains (as we used to call them) include an alternative take on fish, chips and mushy peas – with gunpowder batter plus chilli and coriander aioli where the tartare sauce should be – and steak two ways: burger style in a brioche bun, or on a plate classic with hand-cuts, grilled Portobello mushroom, roasted vine tomatoes and watercress. The menu also lists various sides, sauces and snacks, and there’s an artisanal cheeseboard under desserts.

Sweet treats include vote-winners like sticky toffee pudding, plus the intriguing B&G Apple and malteaser cheesecake, which, if it’s indeed made with the trademarked little round fellas, could spell trouble on the sugar rush front. Better get a “nectar” house cocktail to take the edge off.

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