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One of the good things to come out of lockdown was Berrington’s – a neighbourhood bistro for Penny Lane that took the place of the much-missed Neon Jamon.

It’s from the same team as its predecessor but the concept is entirely different: food cooked over fire. Using a dry oakwood grill, they give meats, fresh fish and veggies a deeper, slightly smoky flavour.

Seafood and steak lovers are well served here. Go for dishes such as fresh oysters, wood-fired cuttlefish, and ash-rolled, lardo-threaded fillet steak. Vegetarians aren’t so well catered for, though mains such as grilled aubergines with smoked wild mushrooms and feta come recommended. 

Desserts get the barbecue treatment too with options such as grilled summer berries and white chocolate mouse with roasted mango.

While the food menu is reassuringly small, the wine list is impressively wide-ranging (and helpfully organised by style). Cocktails are another draw and tend to be their take on classics.

Marble-topped tables, leather-bound menus, and deep-blue panelled walls give it a grown-up, sophisticated vibe that suits the food. A welcome addition to Wavertree’s dining scene.

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  • Good for meat
  • Good for seafood
  • Great wine
Berrington's, Smithdown Place, Liverpool, UK
Tel: 0151 734 3840 12berringtons.com Our review Read 16/20
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