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Modern British

Like the material that inspired the restaurant’s name, Grafene is a contemporary Mancunian classic. Paul and Kathryn Roden opened the modern British restaurant, Grafene in 2016. Located in the former Brasserie Blanc site in Manchester city centre, food is fancy, wines are pricey. The couple have form: they took over Derbyshire’s country hotel and spa, Losehill House, in 2007, quickly delivering a class act. In Manchester, Ben Mounsey (former right hand man at the Wirral’s one Michelin star Fraiche – another Top 100 entry) is a solid bet with Grafene currently in the best shape of its life. Choose from a la carte or go for the ‘British tapas’ menu of small plates. Fine dining bells and whistles are all present and correct; foam, crystals, gems and so on, incorporated into dishes you’ll want to eat. Salt cod with saffron and leeks for example, burnt ends of brisket with pease pudding or corn fed chicken with croquettes and charred gem lettuce. Takes on regional classics include venison with black peas, malt vinegar and salted celeriac, and a homemade tea-infused Eccles cake with Lancashire Bomber cheese ice cream. Desserts are fun: think artful explosions of chocolate (‘brownie in a bowl’) and a breakfast-inspired combo of cereal, banana and milk. Wines run from fancy French bubbles to new world surprises and Wonka-style cocktails are a thing too; the lavender-hued Science and Industry is served over dry ice, while many are paired with flavour matches or clashes such as duck scratchings to crumbled brownie. Grafene is an unexpected Mancunian classic.

  • Great wine
  • Good for vegetarians
  • Fine dining or fancy
55 King Street, Manchester M2 4LQ, UK
Tel: 0161 696 9700 Our review Read 15/20