Madre at Escape to Freight IslandMexican
Tacos for the soul are on the menu at Madre, a spin-off of the popular Liverpool Albert Dock collaboration from the founders of London-based Breddos Tacos and Scouse favourites Volpi and Belzan (whose Pasta Kitchen concession sits right next door at Escape to Freight Island).
Inspired by the food culture of Mexico City, Madre is a taqueria with its own “non-traditional, upscaled, ingredient-driven tacos” and a few other small offerings besides. Madre is the Spanish word for mother, and springing forth here are plenty of flavour-packed as well as colourful combinations. There’s smoky tatemada and popping orange-red achiote, zingy citrus and bright green guacamole. Tacos come in twos and you can expect a varied selection of punchy pick-up-able picks. For fillings, think slow-cooked beef with black beans or tempura-battered cod with jalapeño aioli, garlicky chicken thighs or deep-fried mushrooms. At the time of writing, we were licking our lips at the Iberico pork al pastor number, or “The taco og!”, as the menu put it: marinated pork neck and leg chargrilled and served with chilli de arbol, salsa brava and salsa verde (green salsa made with tomatillo and hot peppers), and slow-cooked pineapple.
On the side, or on their own, those ideas keep coming: Cadillac nachos with “all the salsa”; charred corn on the cob with chipotle and garlic mayo and Wensleydale cheese, and tuna tostada with avocado puree, unlike any tuna sandwich you’ve encountered before.
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