The Burlington at the Devonshire ArmsModern British
Fine dining and extraordinary wine in the hills. This extremely plush restaurant is an established proving ground for new British chefs. Two Michelin star guru, Michael Wignall, was in residence before he moved to The Latymer (and, recently, The Angel at Hetton) while current resident, Paul Leonard, fresh off the boat from Michelin-starred Isle of Eriska, is a comparable craftsman. The hotel and restaurant are set in ye olde English country gardens and form part of the Duke of Devonshire’s 30,000 acre Bolton Abbey estate.
While it may be a tourist hotspot, cooking is as wild as Modern British comes with a number of ingredients and techniques you’d be wise to Google in advance. Flights of fancy from the ‘basic’ tasting menu could include cured duck’s liver with plum and duck ham, while a dish of turbot, mussels and champagne is a marine highlight. Leonard’s signature menu channels nature’s bounty through combinations like salt-baked beetroot with smoky cod’s roe and sheep’s yoghurt or pork cheek with langoustine and sea kale. Such artistry on the plate works in harmony with designer silverware and architectural notations on the walls. With desserts pairing blood orange and pistachio or milk chocolate mousse, coffee and barley, on top of an imaginative cheese board and petit fours, this is special occasion central. Wines are another draw: choose from over 2500 bins tended by the masterful Spencer Brown.
- Great wine
- Fine dining or fancy