The White RabbitModern British
There’s a playfulness about food and decor at this tiny fine dining bolthole in a Yorkshire border town. You instantly notice the nods to Alice in Wonderland and the menu puns owners David and Robyn Gledhill can’t resist. The pair, both chefs, offer monthly changing five course (£35) and eight course (£55) tasting menus (including veggie versions) at both lunch and dinner with optional wine flights. There’s also a monthly brunch menu. Vivid presentation matches technical tour de force without over-complicating a menu that might run from hake with lemon and samphire cream to carrot cake, buttered carrot and orange mascarpone. They are blessed with an impressive roster of local food suppliers. One memorable dish, ‘Piggy Devil’, marries rare breed pork, fillet and cured, from moortop providers Porcus with a fried ‘bomb’ of Devil’s Blue from organic cheesemakers Pextenement with a jus to swoon over. The short wine list touches quality bases, culminating in a gorgeous, raspberryish Ciabot Berton Barolo (£42).