Meaning “grill house” in the rural northern Thai regions from whence it hails, Baan Yang offers a method of cooking and smoking meat and veg over flames, barbecue style, and teams well with the casual “urban drinking space” concept of Neon Tiger, both booze and food served late.
Neon Tiger is Ben Morris’s brainchild, bringing an NYC vibe to Thai streetfood in the former Grindsmith Coffee on Bridge Street, and garnering backing from his brother Dan (MD of Escape To Freight Island) and Bart Murphy (Bunny Jacksons). Sustainability is a thing for Ben, as is good value, so chowing down here won’t cost the earth, either way you look at it. The food offer is something of a moveable feast and is constantly evolving, with “exciting additions to the menu” such as the “hefty new sharer steak” served up via Instagram. There’s quite a lot of meat, this being an open fire kind of gaff, so think charcoal-grilled skewered meats – sweet soy pork with tamarind chilli sauce; peanut satay beef and cucumber pickles – and sausages handmade using native breed pork from Swaledale Butchers flavoured with lemongrass and turmeric, and served with house curry paste. Chicken comes grilled and with either fish sauce caramel and sweet chilli, or as part of the coconut red curry everyone raves about: noodles hand-pulled by Cheetham Hill’s Komugi and served crispy to soak up the sauce flavoured with red onion, coriander and lime, with pickled mustard greens for extra vitamins. Vegetarians are catered for too, and the likes of sweetcorn and aubergine get to visit the coals: the former served with salted coconut cream and lime; the latter with soft boiled egg and a sweet soy dressing. There are also king oyster mushroom skewers (they come in pairs, same as the meat) with a black vinegar dipping sauce, not forgetting the bright and spicy shredded veg salad and jasmine rice for bulk. Eating is an evening pursuit, with lunchtimes covered at the weekend.
Drinks wise, and Neon Tiger has its own pale ales and pilsners, as well as local brews, like Track, Cloudwater and Northern Monk. Wines, including plenty of natural wines, are supplied by Ad Hoc in the Northern Quarter and pet nats – pétillant naturel: low sugar low intervention natural sparkling wines – come direct from Entre Vinyes. Meanwhile, Gordo called the Old Fashioned “excellent”. Yes, they can rustle up a cocktail too.
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