The Bull & BearModern British
Tom Kerridge has brought his Michelin-winning brand to Manchester’s old Stock Exchange, and he’s on the money with a menu offering both gussied-up pub-style favourites and new ideas worth a punt – everyone’s a winner with this kind of choice.
On the best of British side of things, think posh fish and chips, burger with shoestring fries and a modern take on a chicken Kiev, here perfectly breadcrumbed and super oozing with wild garlic emulsion, and served with hasselback potato and simple garden peas. In the innovation corner, how about a whole stuffed rotisserie quail with white truffle polenta and buttered radishes (aside from the ribeye with Café de Paris Butter, the most expensive main)? Or maybe the likes of braised lamb and goats cheese pie with grilled hispi cabbage and mint gravy – classic flavour combinations done out just a little bit differently. The tried-and-tested tastes also find their way onto the starters list, including avocado matched with prawns and duck liver parfait with a fig chutney; points of interest also include a crispy pig’s head dish and a Scotch egg using Cornish pollock instead of sausage meat.
Desserts? Banoffee choux bun with salted caramel cremeux and toffee sauce ticks all the winning combination boxes this time, and a bitter chocolate and cherry mousse sounds like a crowd-pleasing Black Forest gateau without the stodge.
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