Passionate Keralan-Indian-Brit fusion. A great place to eat can make the back end of nowhere worth visiting – and (largely) Keralan restaurant Amma’s Canteen, on the outskirts of Chorlton, feels like a destination.
Located opposite Southern Cemetery on Barlow Moor Road, the area is defiantly residential, yet with its jaunty trompe de l’oeil wallpaper and feature filaments, Amma’s is a joy.
Keralan-Brit chef Saju Ravindran cooks with a rainbow of freshly toasted spices. Highlights include dishes such as kidney bean and spinach vegan dosa with coconut chutney and sambar ‘soup’ and spiced sundal (fried chickpeas pocked with tiny gems of fresh coconut and green mango).
Delicious, street-cart inspired food abounds, such as lentil doughnuts smothered in yoghurt and fresh ginger, and crispy okra (Porucha Vendaka) stuffed with nuts and a dollop of spicy ‘hummus’ on the side.
Their desserts are well worth exploring, and include dishes such as softly poached golden plantain with a palm sugar glace and vanilla ice cream – a wonderful variant on banana custard.
Wines are simple, and there are a few house beers: Amma’s Canteen is all about the food.
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