Fraiche

Merseyside’s fine-dining star, the tiny Fraiche restaurant is home to an artist behind the pass. Having been rated as a ‘rising star’ by the Michelin Guide in 2006 and 2007, the restaurant finally secured the real thing in 2009. Francophile Marc Wilkinson has since upheld it with ease.

Dishes such as almond gazpacho with cherry and asparagus demonstrate the kind of flavour trickery on offer. Expect combinations such as Gressingham duck, cocoa crisp, and kohlrabi, for example, or carrot textures, feta, and pain d’espice.

Despite the molecular trickery at the core of Wilkinson’s style, the cooking is largely characterised by pleasure. This also applies to the remarkably reasonable wine list. With bottles from around £30, it’s affordable – even the ‘fine selection’ with Burgundy from around £70.

Expect cooking inspired by France’s bleeding edge in this unique space. Commissioned glass sculptures and suede are themes; strangely, it works.

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