These millennials, eh? They’re always trying to meddle with things that have been the same way for hundreds of years. But, no matter how much some people pull their faces and dig their heels in, the vines they are a-changing. To be fair, natural and biodynamic winemaking actually pre-dates the whole modern wine industry, as it was once the only way to make wine. However, low intervention wines are enjoying a renaissance on modern restaurant menus and it’s getting easier to find outstanding examples if you know where to look. Environmental considerations are crucial to our times and more and more restaurants (and customers) are bringing the focus back to all things, well, natural. So it might be time to stop wine-ing and open an eco-friendly bottle or two with your dinner, you might be pleasantly surprised.
While there are strict rules around the labelling of organic and biodynamic wines, the guidelines for natural wines are as murky as an unfiltered orange. For some, this just adds to the fun as things get really experimental – and, some might say, risky. But there’s no need to worry when the expert sommeliers at some of the best restaurants in the land have done all the graft for you. We’ve put together a list of five of our Top 100 restaurants and another five honourable mentions in Manchester (that opened since we announced our last guide) that are sure to pour you an au naturel glass you’ll love.
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Book Now Preston
The Cartford Inn
This historic coaching house serves adventurous British pub food in poetic configurations. Cooking is by mushroom forager and head chef, Chris Bury, whose CV includes the Fat Duck and Claridges, while award-winning suppliers include local wine merchants, D Byrne and Gornall’s dairy, near Preston. The interior, some of which dates back to the 1800s, is packed with wood panels and idiosyncratic artworks while the wider complex takes in glass-clad extensions, an al fresco terrace, and cool, eco-style cabins, integrated into the landscape. A place to get away from it all for a day, or a night – and enjoy some of the best food in the region at the same time.
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Cumbria
The Forest Side
Michelin-starred restaurant and hotel The Forest Side, owned by Lakes hotelier Andrew Wildsmith, is built on the foundations of the cooking of former L’Enclume forager, Kevin Tickle.
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South Yorkshire
Jöro
Offering Nordic-inspired fine dining inside a shipping container, Jöro has secured accolades galore, including a clutch of AA Rosettes and Michelin Bib Gourmand.
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Stockport
Where the Light Gets In
With no menu and esoteric wines, Where the Light Gets In doesn’t adhere to the typical fine-dining formula. But it’s been a success for Stockport, thanks to chef-patron Sam Buckley’s belief in doing things his own way.
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Levenshulme
Isca
Isca is a natural wine bar and shop on an unassuming street in Levenshulme, brought to you by Caroline Dubois (sommelier at Where The Light Gets In) and Isobel Jenkins (Seasons Eatings supper club).
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Northern Quarter
Wolf At The Door
The team behind Wolf At The Door know a thing or two about adaptation. They launched as a highly stylised restaurant and cocktail bar serving NOMA-influenced small plates. Then changed their name (they were formerly known as Wilderness) and completely overhauled their menu. Nowadays they serve tacos and bao buns that keep the playful feel of the original offering, but with much more accessible prices.