Interview

‘A refuge from the world’s ills’ – HOME, Leeds, reviewed

How often do you find a lunch that channels C.S. Lewis, Matisse, and Len Goodman?…

NOT many restaurants in the world hit you with an opening salvo of great expectations just from opening the front door and walking up the stairs. 

Home took Gordo’s breath away.

It was like going through that lion’s wardrobe in reverse.

The start of winter in Leeds is always a bit grim, nowhere more so than walking up Kirkgate in the city centre, looking for Home’s nondescript entrance; a couple of understated hanging baskets looked sufficiently out of place next to a busy Poundland.

With blue ears and a runny nose, opening the front door and stepping into an interestingly gloomy hall and following lighted candles here and there on the unfinished stone steps, Gordo got interested. 

A cauliflower cheese tartlet stunned. Alongside two fine companions, it shone like Gordo’s beloved Darcy in between Len and Craig, the latter whom could do with necking a couple of those Negronis before the show.

Two or three flights up and suddenly a bar opens up that is as easy on the eye as a Mattise in his blue period.

There were three of us, the fat Publisher, an immaculately coiffured Leeds editor whose beard is so perfect it should be used to keep unsullied virgins warm and safe and the chief editor who shouldn’t be sporting one at all. Let’s leave it at that. 

Sitting down at the bar on Savoy-comfy stools, Mike the barman served a couple of Negronis ‘with a twist’. The Confidentials don’t like things ‘with a twist’.

In Gordo’s opinion it’s not possible to improve on Darcey Bussell, the woman of his dreams, ‘with a twist’.

Neither is it possible to improve on this gloom-lifting, liverish-busting cocktail from Florence. But, to be fair, Mike’s idea is acceptable; it’s moved up a few pegs on the sweeter side by the use of blood oranges. We loved ‘em.

Three ‘amuse bouches’ were delivered on the bar top for us. Each a mouthful to tease and lay out the intent from the team in the kitchen.

A cauliflower cheese tartlet stunned. Alongside two fine companions, it shone like Gordo’s beloved Darcy in between Len and Craig, the latter whom could do with necking a couple of those Negronis before the show.

Home is the brainchild of Masterchef finalist Liz Cottam, and business partner Mark Owens.

Mark was previously head chef at a Michelin one star favourite of Gordo, The Box Tree at Ilkley. This meal should be interesting.

Read the full review here.

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