This unassuming Keralan restaurant has charmed everyone from celebrities (Andrew Lincoln, Sanju Samson) to the inspectors of the Michelin, Hardens and Good Food Guides. Cooking tends towards home-style dishes; seasonal Meen Koottan fish curry served with paratha and a rich, chicken Pedappan Kozhi. Sides, snacks and starters are worth visiting time and again. Choose from lentil doughnuts, roast eggs, idli with sambar and devoted dosas and bread menus. The décor is undeniably Brit curry house – black leather chairs, bright lights – yet the look is warmed by wood panelling and vintage Indian prints. The wine list contains a few surprises too. A Sicilian rose, for example, Alsace whites and a clutch of sparklers. A regular entry on the UK’s ‘best curry’ lists, booking is essential at this hidden gem turned national treasure.