Colleen’s

With its plush velvet chairs and cushions and pink and green hues du jour, Colleen’s cuts a smart jib on Rammy’s main drag, and the locally sourced ingredients and menus created alongside the seasons adds to the contemporary feel of this neighbourhood restaurant.

Dishes are devised as produce comes onto market, so for the likes of May, it’s asparagus all the way, including teamed with spring lamb, and even grown-up cocktails such as elderflower and basil smash topped with a chic curl of cucumber. Simplicity is stylish – think a starter plate of fresh fuchsia radishes, complete with their green tops in keeping with the decor, served with whipped cheese and herbs for dipping purposes.

Other opening gambits have included pretty-as-a-picture poached mussels with saffron mayonnaise and crunchy sourdough and almond crumb. On the mains, hits include roasted and braised rabbit with swede, caramelised onions and of course Bury black pudding, and tarragon-stuffed chicken, salted turnips, mushrooms and bath chaps, a kind of mini ham made from pig cheeks. Weekends mean brunch classics the likes of home-cured salmon, smashed avocado and poached egg combinations, and there are roasts on Sunday – chicken breast or sirloin steak and all the trimmings, including Yorkshire and homemade stock in the gravy poured from a dinky copper saucepan.

For desserts, think “technique”, as they say on Masterchef: cherry soufflé with home-churned ice cream is one dish we spotted on Insta; lemon and vanilla tart another; chocolate mousse with blackberries, caramel and macadamia nut shavings another again.

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