Merchants 1688

Merchants 1688 doesn’t seem to know what it is. The restaurant is from 1688, the decor from 1998 and yet the food is bang up to date.

It has all the makings of a great restaurant but it’s not quite there yet.

The stunning food coming out of the kitchen is what makes this place worth a visit. Even the bar snacks are heavenly with recent options including rarebit crumpet topped with braised beef and a lovely little dinky duck pie.

For the quality of the food on offer, Merchants 1688 offers excellent value. It’s all locally-sourced with meat from the fells and fields of Cumbria and Lancashire being a real standout.

Typical dishes include things like lobster ravioli with black truffle and lobster bisque to start and main courses such as lamb cannon with morels, romesco, goats curd and wild garlic. Don’t miss the excellent monthly tasting menu nights. Chef Will Graham is clearly a talent.

Merchants 1688 has the bones of a destination restaurant, housed as it is in a historic wine cellar right by the castle. It should be beautiful.

But it’s a little on the musty side and emanates vibes which are the very opposite of fine dining. Not in a cool, relaxed, unstuffy way. It looks like a slightly naff pub. Don’t let any of that put you off.

Confidential Guides loves the food, Jay Rayner is a fan, and it has an AA Rosette for culinary excellence. If the owners decide to realise the potential of this place you’ll have to wait months to get a table.