Pinion

Gary Usher’s north western chain of Elite Bistros these days totals six of the stripped-back but still homely restaurants, including Prescot’s Pinion. Housed in a former bookies, it’s definitely worth a punt, with its seasonally changing set menus of modern British fayre.

There’s something for everyone, from the super pretty Killeen cheese dumpling with cauliflower, pickled shallot, lemon and chive oil vegetarian starter to the inventive spiced field mushroom doughnut with sesame creamed spinach and caramelised celeriac gravy plant-based main. Meat wise, at time of writing, we were drawn to the beech-smoked duck breast with salt-baked celeriac, hazelnut butter, duck leg croquette and plum sauce, perfect for easing into those autumnal vibes. Beef fans can pick between cuts: featherblade is popular chez Usher and there’s a 35 day-aged sirloin in the section dedicated to sharing (the other for two option is guineafowl); both come with cauliflower purée, truffle and parmesan chips, and a red wine sauce. Sunday lunch is proper: think stuffed and rolled pork belly with apple purée and roast beef with Yorkshire pudding following chicken liver pâté and roast beetroot and ricotta salad. A pre-theatre menu gives a nod to the Shakespeare North Playhouse, opening up the road in summer 2022, and serves up a set lunch and early-evening menu including the likes of spiced lamb faggots and beer-battered fish and chips. Sweet treats range from crowdpleasers such as crème brûlée and profiteroles to barley-malt doughnuts with whisky-steeped golden sultanas and chocolate Oblivion with mint choc-chip ice cream and dark chocolate sauce.

Food choices are paired with drinks suggestions, from manzanilla sherry with starters through to port with desserts and even cider with the British cheeseboard. There’s also a good selection of wines, mostly old world, and the beers stretch to an English Trappist ale.

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