Skosh

Going by name and appearances, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Skosh for a Scandi furniture shop: tables the colour of driftwood bob in a greyscale dining room with an Ikea-yellow wall as the backdrop. In fact, its open kitchen is staffed with chefs preparing British dishes with an adventurous and international flavour. Skosh offers as close to perfect as world-fusion cooking gets in the UK.

Chef-patron Neil Bentinck’s menu could include tandoori-spiced Galician octopus or a dim sum-style roast pork bun with pak choi kimchi. A light, miso-glazed hake with Egyptian dukkah and cauliflower-rice risotto could be followed by heavyweight fried chicken, with a brown butter hollandaise mousse.

Fun-packed puds could include cones and popsicles (fruit and tonka beans reworked into foams, ice creams, chocolates and jams) or bhapi doi (literally translated as ‘steamed yoghurt’) with cardamom meringue shards, strawberries, jelly and pistachio sponge.

This balance of cheffy and accessible – as well as the wild palate of international influences – makes Skosh a must for food (and wine) lovers.

It seems Bentinck’s imagination has been set free at Skosh following Michelin-star gigs at Pipe and Glass and Northcote. Who knows where it will take him next.

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