The London Carriage Works

Born in the early 2000s, The London Carriage Works is Liverpool’s original Modern British restaurant. Driven by a passion for Mersey produce and molecular gastronomy, founding head chef Paul Askew (now of the Art School) pushed an award-winning formula here for years – and current head chef Mike Kenyon follows suit.

Starters could include Highland venison carpaccio or a classic hand-dived scallop with pork belly and green apple. Local cuts are brought to life with scenting, jus and flavours. Smoked walnuts, crispy sage and rosehip litter a menu that includes sharing platters and simpler dishes such as fish and chips.

For dessert, rum-soaked prune cake with spiced caramel is the kind of alchemy on offer. House ice cream comes highly rated too, with cheese another strength. A smorgasbord of wines is available by the glass from a list whose focus is intrigue and value over bombast.

Inside, glass shards and exposed brick bring to mind Manchester’s old Hacienda. The restaurant certainly divides opinion, but it offers a taste of the region which few can match.