Adam Reid at The French

Culinary rock and roll from Simon Rogan’s protege, Adam Reid, and head chef Blaise Murphy, formerly of Mana. Enjoy fine-dining in Grade II Listed Victorian surrounds – with a side order of Mancunian attitude.

The soundtrack (which could include The Beatles and Oasis) is drawn from Reid’s personal playlist and sets a cool scene for pin-sharp creations.

The tasting menu could include Cumbrian shorthorn loin cooked in its own fat with swede, seaweed and fish eggs, or warm cheese on celery root with with giblet gravy and English mushrooms. Upscale Northern comfort food is another trend while desserts could include Reid’s blown-sugar clementine with white chocolate leaf and sea buckthorn sorbet. Reid won the Great British Menu dessert round with a similar creation called ‘Golden Empire’.

The wine list is brilliantly expansive and dining here feels like an occasion – no matter what time of day you visit. A draped-off lounge area with its own reception creates the illusion of an independent restaurant rather than one shoe-horned into a bustling hotel.