The manifesto at industrial-chic restaurant and “dine-at-wine-bar” Manifest is “seasonal plates and famous Liverpool hospitality”, with the Modern British menus regularly changing to reflect both local produce availability and the wines that will be matched to the food.
When we have a ganders, there’s fruit from Yorkshire in the form of forced rhubarb, and Lancashire delivers on the dairy front, with Mrs Kirkham’s finding her way into one of the vegetarian small plates (another veggie number is a sweet onion tart with caramelised Roscoff and other allium treats): pearl barley risotto with purple sprouting broccoli, swede and pickled walnut, topped with a confit egg.
Other locally sourced fayre includes the Lancashire whey butter that’s teamed with the house sourdough, and the Southport shrimp accompanying the roasted skate wing and caramelised cauliflower on our menu. Seafood is paraded proudly at Manifest, with the likes of a poached oyster “snack” topped with pickled shallots then given a chive oil and rhubarb schnapps emulsion drizzle, and a small plate of mussels cooked in beer.
In the meat corner, air-dried, salted beef bresaola heads in from Dorset, and beef tartare is made from a flavoursome cut of ex dairy rump cap. Warm dishes include heritage leg of lamb and aged pork chop; the first served with anise carrots, green sauce and potato puree, and the second with potato terrine, pickled girolles and cider cream.
They like their cheese, and if you don’t go for the sharing board as a starter, opt for the British selection, with quince jelly and other accoutrements, for pud. Sweet treats come in the form of chocolate delice with gingerbread ice cream or rice pudding with blood orange.
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