Noted

Only a year old, Noted by Andrew Sheridan is an absolute charmer. Part of Open Restaurant Group, led by Sam Morgan and chef Andrew Sheridan, it belongs to a growing family of small, cosy restaurants with distinct personalities. Behind the warmth is a serious operation, with Sheridan, whose Eight in Liverpool holds three AA Rosettes, setting exacting standards in the kitchens.

I walked in on Michelin’s recommendation, who have listed them at speed and found Liam Gill cooking food that stopped me in my tracks. At just 23, he is a future superstar. The cooking? I’d call it postmodern British. I suspect Andrew Sheridan has spent a happy spell rummaging through a spice importer’s warehouse on Liverpool docks. There’s a reassuring backbone to it, with flavours that take you well beyond these shores and Liam knows how to bring the whole lot together.

The menu takes the increasingly welcome approach of offering starters, main courses, and puddings. Share them if you fancy or eat in the old-fashioned way. The food is gorgeous whichever route you take.

Little things tell you plenty here. Even the cola has been chosen with care: Karma Kola from Karma Drinks is independently produced and a standout drink where you might expect an ordinary tin of fizz. The wine list is spare but very well chosen, including an excellent English sparkling wine from nearby Staffordshire.

Bella, looking after nine tables with apparently effortless warmth, is an absolute delight. That generosity seems characteristic of the people working across the group. Noted deserves to be one of its great successes, and its young chef will go far.

Gordo’s advice? Get in here quickly, while you can still bag a table.