Translating as ‘three chubby friends’ (a self-effacing reference to owner Francesco Scafuri and a pair of his portly pals from back in Campania), Tre Cicco doesn’t look much from the outside, or even the inside, at first. The ground floor of Altrincham’s newish Italian restaurant only houses a couple of tables, some giant fridges and a bar. But once you descend the windy staircase, it opens into a tardis-like trattoria. The restaurant manages to be classic and urban at the same time. White tablecloths and candlelight satisfy more traditional diners, while exposed brick walls produce lined up in wire cages and paper napkins re-enforce the casual dining element. One room leads onto another, which in turn opens out onto an all-weather terrace.
Tre Ciccio’s reassuringly short menu centres on their wood-fired oven, in which they cook variations of Neopolitana pizza and roast chicken. The wine list is similarly brisk, which works well in a bustling family restaurant. Order a quartet of bocconcini fritti (£6.50), posh buffalo mozzarella cheese bites, or a generous, non-greasy portion of Cuoppo Fritto (£6.95) – Tre Ceccio’s take on the Neopolitan-style street food of lightly coated and fried squid, prawns and whitebait. The pizzas here are top notch, as is the roast chicken, served ‘Italian style’ on a platter with crispy potatoes cooked in the juices. Lovely. It’s not a polite knife and fork job, so ask for extra napkins and get stuck in.