One Plus

One Plus is all about the plus; there’s nothing singular about a restaurant that serves hand-made noodles in the basement, that has a section devoted to Chinese BBQ and also, China’s answer to Yo! Sushi – a conveyor belt of comestibles that you drop into a pan of hot broth built in to your table and get cooking. Perhaps the singular thing about it is it’s almost a one-of-a-kind. There may be a similar outpost in that there London but that is all the competition there is.

Despite that, One Plus isn’t one to rest on its laurels. The food is good – spicy, fresh and as for the flavour combinations, well in the hot pot section, that’s largely down to you. If you think a mouth-numbing broth of lettuce, knot yam noodles and pork brisket doesn’t work, stick something else in the pot instead. If you have a hankering for soothing chicken broth filled to the brim with squid, marinated rib eye steak, razor clams, spinach, rice cakes and tripe like some demented witch’s cauldron, you can. Just chuck it all in.

The staff are good too – friendly, helpful and politely ignoring the mess you’ve made. They offer tips for the uninitiated and can sense when you’re struggling.

One Plus is very cheap. Even if you get carried away lifting plate after plate of mussels and king prawns off the conveyor belt for your next magic potion, it’s hard to overspend here. And it is a place to get carried away because half the thrill is in the experience itself. But do not wear a white shirt. Think of it as a very splashy splodgy food adventure.