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As close to perfect as world-fusion British cooking gets. Going by name and appearances, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Skosh for a Scandi furniture shop: tables the colour of driftwood bob in a greyscale dining room, an Ikea-yellow wall the backdrop to the open kitchen. There’s a stainless steel bar overlooking chefs preparing British dishes with an adventurous and international flavour.

Chef-patron Neil Bentinck’s menu could include tandoori-spiced Galician octopus or a dim sum-style roast pork bun with pak choi kimchi. A light, miso-glazed hake with Egyptian dukkah and cauliflower-rice risotto could be followed by heavyweight fried chicken, with a brown butter hollandaise mousse. There’s artistry at work too, in the shape of a ‘hen’s egg’ made with cheddar foam, a creamy yolk, bits of crispy cheddar, sauteed mushroom, and Pedro Ximenez sherry reduction tastes. The result: something brilliantly akin to Welsh Rarebit. Fun-packed puds could include cones and popsicles (fruit and tonka beans reworked into foams, ice creams, chocolates and jams) or bhapi doi (literally translated as ‘steamed yoghurt’) with cardamom meringue shards, strawberries, jelly and pistachio sponge.

This balance of cheffy and accessible – as well as the wild palate of international influences – makes Skosh a must for food (and wine) lovers. It seems Bentinck’s imagination has been set free at Skosh following Michelin-star gigs at Pipe and Glass and Northcote. Who knows where it will take him next.

  • Great wine
  • Good for vegetarians
98 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX, UK
Tel: 01904 634849 skoshyork.co.uk Our review Read 16.5/20


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